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Nano-particles improve delivery of natural anti-ageing cosmetics
Leading skin care marketers l have adopted technologies from other fields, including pharmaceuticals and electronics, to introduce anti-aging actives to the skin more effectively, more efficiently, and for a longer duration.
By employing novel delivery systems like nanoparticles, these companies and their competitors have not only introduced several new cosmetic products lines, they've also been able to breathe new life into existing ones.
This has led to double-digit growth rates for skin care products - the only segment to show such excitement for the short term in an otherwise mature cosmetics and toiletries market.
Retail sales of anti-aging skin care products are valued at nearly $2.5 billion (€1.9bn) in the US alone and the global market estimated to be worth $6.9 billion in 2003, to according estimates from market research firm Kline & Company. Indeed, a recent study by Kline, pegs US and Western European consumption of specialty active ingredients - compounds that provide a therapeutic benefit to the skin or hair - and the systems used to deliver these ingredients, at more than $500 million at the manufacturer level and rising steadily.
" Skin care marketers have always focused a lot of attention on finding better and more powerful active ingredients, but they're also developing new and more effective ways to deliver the actives they're already using," said Gillian Morris, industry manager for Kline's Chemicals and Materials Practice.
"These new delivery systems can provide more targeted results to the application site and can really differentiate a marketer's product from the rest of the field."
This has also helped to extend the anti-aging trend into the mass market, where there is enormous demand for effective - but affordable - noninvasive alternatives to cosmetic surgery. Morris also notes that until fairly recently, advanced specialty actives could be found only in 'professional' products purchased from spas and salons, dermatologist offices and cosmetic surgery clinics, or high-end prestige outlets.
Now, thanks in part to more effective delivery systems, the larger cosmetic and personal care marketers have been able to introduce their own anti-aging products in the retail market. Brands like Olay and Neutrogena have launched 'professional-type' products in the mass retail market, positioning themselves to compete with professional skin care brands but at much lower price points and with much larger distribution.
Another study recently published by Kline about the US skin care market states that sales of these professional-oriented products increased by more than 80 per cent in the past year, leaping to an estimated $285 million in 2004.
The anti-aging trend has also energised the raw materials side of the business, attracting new entrants as well as generating mergers and acquisitions. In March, ISP was formed when US-based ISP acquired certain businesses and assets of UK-based Hallcrest, a leader in microencapsulation for cosmetics and toiletries. And Englehard, which previously focused on effect pigments, purchased Collaborative Labs, a leader in delivery systems and actives for personal care.
"Like their clients, raw materials suppliers are also scrambling to meet demand for newer and better actives and delivery system technologies," said Morris. "This is one of the only sectors in specialty chemicals where the supplier base is expanding right now, and many firms are leveraging technologies from pharma applications to capitalise on the tremendous growth in personal care."
Anti-Aging Ingredients in Skincare and Cosmetics
ALA (Alpha Lipoic Acid) : Studies show that when taken a supplement, ALA has many potential health benefits. As a skincare ingredient, it can diminish the appearance of wrinkles and help firm the skin. ALA also helps with puffiness and under-eye bags.
Idebenone: This antioxidant has been used for pharmaceutical purposes for years. Recently it's been touted as one of the most potent antioxidants available. Research suggests that Idebenone helps skin lipids defend themselves from free radical damage and degradation. Idebenone is structurally similar to CoQ10.
GABA (Gama Amino Butyric Acid): When added to treatment creams, this amino acid is supposed to simulate a Botox-like effect. It may help to smooth fine lines, wrinkles and crows feet around the eyes and mouth, and between the brows.
Kinetin is a naturally occurring plant growth hormone proven to slow the aging process in plant cells. When used in skincare products, Kinetin helps improve skin texture, lighten hyperpigmentation and even-out blotchy skin. Kinetin is considered a gentler alternative to prescription Retinoids.
Olive Oil and human skin both contain squalane, an ingredient that oxygenates and nourishes cells. Therefore, olive oil-based products give your skin a nutrient boost. Olive oil is also packed with vitamins and free radical killing antioxidants. The Japanese and Italians have used pure olive oil as a beauty booster for centuries.
Polyphenols and Anti-inflammatories In Wrinkle Free Forever, noted dermatologist Howard Mu talks about the damage caused by inflammation. Examples of skin inflammation include: allergic reactions, acne, flushing, hives, and the symptoms associated with disorders like Rosacea and Psoriasis. Inflammation is a sign that the body is attempting to protect itself from trauma. Over time, this protection backfires, creating an excessive amount of free radicals and leading to water loss in the skin cells. What can help halt this process, Mur says, are antioxidants that double as topical anti-inflammatories. Mu suggests that polyphenols (plant derived antioxidants) are especially beneficial.
Polyphenols
Sources of polyphenols include green tea, white tea, grape seed extract, olive oil, dark chocolate, and pomegranates. Here's how they work:
· Grape seed extract: Free radical scavengers that strengthen and repair damaged cells with flavanoids, Also a rich source of Essential Fatty Acids.
· Green tea: Calms and visible and internal signs of inflammation.
· Pomegranate: Reinforces the skin's structural fibers and boots sun protection.
Promoting Product Penetration
If used correctly, AHAs like Glycolic and Lactic acids help antioxidant ingredients do their job. AHAs rejuvenate the skin by exfoliating the skin's dead top layer and revealing healthier skin. Dead skin cells not only make skin look dull, they create a barrier that blocks product penetration. AHAs have proven to help skin function better by removing layers of sun-damaged skin.
Remember that AHAs and prescription retinoids make your skin more susceptible to photodamage. Be vigilant about using sunscreen and limiting your overall UV.
Finally, hydration is a cornerstone to beautiful and youthful skin. In addition to the fighting free radicals with antioxidants and sunscreen, make sure that you add hydrating ingredients to your skin. The following ingredients will keep the skin moist and are suitable for all skin types.
Effective anti aging treatment will give you clear and radiant skin
A good anti aging treatment regimen can make a huge difference in the appearance of aging facial skin. Your appearance and your sense of well-being are linked. Every woman wants to look great and feel good about he rself. This desire can be fulfilled through an effective anti aging treatment regimen, one that will leave you with a clear, radiant, vibrant, and healthy skin.
In our society, skin is a component of one's self esteem, appearance, and attraction. Your skin is the most visible part, the "you" that you show to the world. Like many other parts of your body, the facial skin requires care and attention. The most important thing that you can do to keep your skin healthy, attractive and youthful is to follow an effective anti aging treatment plan.
The first signs of aging usually show up in the face. The face is often the first tell-tale sign of one's age. The skin begins to show signs of aging between 30 and 35. As a woman advances in age, a number of physical changes gradually occur that outwardly affect the appearance of the skin: dryness, buildup of dead skin cells, and hyperpigmentation.
The softness and flexibility of the skin is dependent on its moisture and oil content. As the skin ages, there is a decreased production of oil and perspiration by the sebaceous and sweat glands, respectively. Thus, the skin becomes drier.
Because dry skin is more prone to wrinkling than oily skin, aging skin requires daily moisturizing. A moisturizing cream is essential to any anti aging treatment plan. Daily moisturizing of the skin will make it softer, vibrant, and healthier.
As a woman ages, there is an overall slowdown in the skin renewal process. Aging skin loses the ability to regenerate new youthful skin cells and to shed dead ones. A build-up of dead cells on the surface of the skin can give it a dull and lifeless appearance.
The dead cells are filled with a skin protein called keratin. Excessive deposits of keratin on the skin's surface can make it rough. The skin can take on a sand paper appearance if it is neglected for a long period of time.
An exfoliating cleanser is essential to an anti aging treatment regimen. An exfoliating cleanser can effectively remove the build-up of dead cells from aging skin. After the dead cells are scrubbed from the skin's surface, immediately left under it is a revitalized, radiant, healthier, and a more youtful appearing skin.
In addition, exfoliation is good skin hygiene. An exfoliating cleanser removes impurities and dead cells from the surface of the skin. Periodic exfoliation can greatly improve the appearance of aging skin.
Increased skin pigmentation is also associated with aging. Melanocytes are specialized skin cells that produce a pigment called melanin. As the skin ages, splotching occurs. Splotching is due to an uneven deposition of pigment in the outer skin. The skin is no longer a uniform color when compared to the skin of a young healthy adult.
A skin lightener is essential to an anti aging treatment regimen. A skin lightener smooths out skin tones and splotches. They also improve the clarity and radiance of aging skin.
A skin cream containing vitamin C can effectively reduce the hyperpigmentation associated with aging skin and unify skin color. Vitamin C reduces hyperpigmentation of the skin by decreasing the production of melanin by the melanocytes.
An effective anti-aging treatment plan does not have to be elaborate, expensive or time consuming. A basic anti aging treatment regimen should include an exfoliating cleanser, a moisturizing cream containing an antioxidant vitamin, and a skin lightener.
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Lipoic Acid
Lipoic Acid is a highly potent antioxidant that counteracts reactive free radicals in the mitochondria, the power plants of cells where energy for all cellular activities is generated. Some scientists believe that mitochondrial free radicals play an important role in human aging, and have theorized that extra amounts of free-radical inhibiting compounds such as lipoic acid may be able to help slow aging. Lipoic acid is also effective in recycling other antioxidants such as Vitamin E back into their original form after they detoxify free radicals. There also is evidence that lipoic acid can reduce glycation damage due to excess glucose in the blood, which may be involved in aging. Lipoic acid consists of two different forms (isomers) that have vastly different properties. The “R” form is the biologically active component (native to the body) that is responsible for lipoic acid’s phenomenal antioxidant effect. The “S” form is produced from chemical manufacture and is not very biologically active.
Carnosine
Carnosine is a multifunctional dipeptide made up of a chemical combination of the amino acids beta-alanine and L-histidine. It is found both in food and in the human body. Long-lived cells such as nerve cells (neurons) and muscle cells (myocytes) contain high levels of carnosine. Muscle levels of carnosine correlate with the maximum life spans of animals. Carnosine levels decline with age. Muscle levels decline 63% from age 10 to age 70, which may account for the normal age-related decline in muscle mass and function. Since carnosine acts as a pH buffer, it can keep on protecting muscle cell membranes from oxidation under the acidic conditions of muscular exertion. Carnosine enables the heart muscle to contract more efficiently through enhancement of calcium response in heart myocytes. Aging causes irreversible damage to the body’s proteins. The underlying mechanism behind this damage is glycation. A simple definition of glycation is the cross-linking of proteins and sugars to form non-functioning structures in the body. The process of glycation can be superficially seen as unsightly wrinkled skin. Glycation is also an underlying cause of age-related catastrophes including the neurologic, vascular, and eye disorders. Carnosine is a unique dipeptide that interferes with the glycation process.
Green Tea Extract
What makes green tea extract such an important nutrient are the large volumes of published scientific findings that validate its multiple biological benefits. The most significant findings involve studies showing that green tea extract helps maintain cellular DNA and membrane structural integrity. Decades of research shows that green tea inhibits the development of undesirable cell colonies. The active constituents in green tea are powerful antioxidants called polyphenols (catechins) and flavonols. Several catechins are present in green tea and account for the bulk of favorable research reports. Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) is the most powerful of these catechins. EGCG functions as an antioxidant that is about 25-100 times more potent than vitamins C and E. One cup of green tea may provide 10-40 mg of polyphenols and has antioxidant effects that are greater than a serving of broccoli, spinach, carrots, or strawberries. Theoretically, the high antioxidant activity of green tea makes it beneficial for protecting the body from oxidative damage due to free radicals.
Fish Oil
Studies on omega-3 fatty acids are so impressive that an agency of the National Institutes of Health published a report stating that fish oil can help reduce deaths from heart disease. The FDA itself states supportive but not conclusive research shows that consumption of EPA and DHA omega-3 fatty acids may actually reduce the risk of coronary heart disease. There are several mechanisms attributed to fish oil’s beneficial effects. The latest government report cites the triglyceride-lowering effects of fish oil on reducing heart and blood vessel disorders. Another beneficial mechanism of fish oil is to protect healthy blood flow in arteries.
In a very simplified explanation, human beings are composed of specialized cells that perform specific functions (i.e. skin cells, heart cells, muscle cells, etc). After years and years these cells become more and more damaged. Eventually, the collective cells that make up organs become so damaged the organ fails to function, such as the loss of vision or hearing as people age. This process of damage and dysfunction of the vital organs eventually leads to death.
Most of this damage is caused by free radicals. Free radicals are minute chemical particles (atoms or groups of atoms) which are frequently the by-products of chemical processes. For example, when two chemicals join together to form another chemical, some particles are eliminated and these can be free radicals. Free radicals have at least one unpaired electron, causing the chemical particle to be unstable. To become stabilized the particle must obtain an electron from some another chemical. By taking an electron from another chemical, the free radical becomes a stable chemical, but the other chemical now becomes a free radical and its chemical structure is changed. It must then steal an electron. Thus the chain reaction (of atoms stealing electrons) continues and can be thousands of events long.
Free radicals can steal an electron and break down another biomolecule such as loose proteins, sugars, fatty acids, etc. that are NOT part of a larger chemical structure. In these cases the free radical does little damage. If a free radical steals an electron from one of the proteins that is contained in a strand of collagen (rather than a loose protein), it causes a change in the chemical structure of the collagen at that point and causes a break in the collagen strand. This is damage. Once a bundle of collagen has multiple points of damage which occurs over years, the strand of collagen becomes dysfunctional and loses its elastic quality. The skin begins to sag. Over time free radical damage happens to the various components of the body and this damage is progressive.
Free radicals chip away at cell walls, molecule by molecule, making holes. The cells leak and lose their chemical balances. Subsequent free radicals are able to chip away at DNA, making cells dysfunctional. If this damage affects cellular DNA, the cell may malfunction and this is what happens cell by cell over the lifetime of a human being, ultimately causing entire organs to malfunction, because their cells malfunction. If the DNA of basal keratinocytes, for example, are damaged the cells may become dysfunctional and the basal cells will reproduce cells that are equally as damaged and dysfunctional, resulting in the aging and dysfunction of the skin and its various components. Aging is simply the progression of damage, caused by free radicals.
The major creators of free radicals in the skin are (1. normal chemical processes such as producing and using energy, producing skin components such as lipids, and other daily chemical processes that give off free radicals as a natural byproduct (2. unprotected sun exposure, (3. products applied to the skin that produce free radicals and (4. pollution. The way to slow the process of skin aging is as easy as reducing the volume of non-essential free radical activity in the skin. If one source of free radical production is addressed (for example unprotected sun exposure) there will be a slowing of skin aging process and if two or three sources of free radical production are addressed (such as unprotected sun exposure and free radical producing skin care products and pollution) there will be a greater degree of slowing the skin aging process. These actions can become anti-aging options. Sun protection will be discussed on the Skin Sun Damage page. Skin care product ingredients that promote aging are discussed on the Premature Skin Aging page. Diet is discussed on the Skin Anti-Aging Diet page. Other subjects are covered on this page.
Most of the chemical processes that occur in the skin emit free radicals. In the body, the processing of food, producing energy and using energy creates free radicals. Breathing and using our muscles to perform functions creates free radicals. Manufacturing collagen or lipids or pigment produces free radicals. These free radicals can create damage to the components of the skin as they steal an electron from another component to make themselves complete and stable.
Antioxidants are chemicals that are able to donate an electron to a free radical, stabilizing the free radical and stopping the chain of chemical reactions and potential damage. Antioxidants are able to donate the missing electron to a free radical without the antioxidant becoming a free radical. In this manner antioxidants prevent free radical damage or in other words, they slow the aging process.
In its own defense the body manufactures antioxidants, such as superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione peroxidase, etc. If, for example, extra genes for the production of these manufactured antioxidants are placed into the DNA of fruit flies, significantly increasing their production of these antioxidants, the fruit flies can live 30% longer than normal fruit flies. This demonstrates the benefits of adding antioxidants to the body and skin, as an anti-aging mechanism. Therefore the youthful appearance of the skin can be sustained longer by increasing the presence of antioxidants.
It is estimated that each keratinocyte (cells in the skin's outer epidermal layer) in our skin has 5,000 exposures to free radicals every day. As a result, the skin has the potential to age faster than any other organ in the body, and because of a decreased supply of antioxidants, the aging process becomes faster every year.
Eating a diet that is rich in antioxidants is an excellent anti-aging strategy for the entire body. It is estimated that only about 2-3% of the antioxidants we eat, get to the skin because of the body’s demand for antioxidants. Topically applied antioxidants in an absorbable form can reduce skin damage significantly by putting the anti-aging mechanisms directly into the skin. This is especially true of the epidermis which has no direct supply of blood to provide antioxidants and has the greatest exposure to sun and pollution generated free radicals. The skin can tolerate and benefit from an infinite supply of antioxidants which will slow the skin’s aging process to a trickle…provided the skin is protected from sun damage, and free radicals are not applied to the skin.
BiON uses key antioxidants as ingredients in many of its products and all products contain antioxidants. Several BiON products are so rich in therapeutic ingredients which are potent antioxidants, that these products are classified as powerful anti-aging agents. For example BiON's Moisture Complex is a powerful anti-aging product. Following is an ingredient list and powerful antioxidants are underlined: Deionized Water, Capryl Glycol, Avocado, Cecyl Oleate, Hydrocotyl (Gotu Kola), Safflower, Soybean, Evening Primrose, Chamomile, Green Tea, Betaglucan, Adenosine Triphosphate, Vitamin B, Hyaluronic Acid, Bisabolol, Xanthan Gum, Vitamin E.....
A few plant extracts are capable of stimulating the body’s production of it’s own antioxidants. For example, hydrocotyl (centella asiatica / gotu kola) is a very powerful antioxidant and one of BiON’s most frequently used ingredients. It stimulates the increased production of catalase (a powerful antioxidant produced by our body to protect itself from damage) and the anti-aging benefit of this ingredient is remarkable. Hydrocotyl is also used as a wound and injury dressing because it has a direct stimulatory affect upon fibroblast cells, stimulating them to produce collagen. Hydrocotyl is in Moisture Complex, Nutrient Essentials Mask, Line Reducing Complex, etc.
Because of their antioxidant content the follow BiON products are powerful anti-aging agents: Moisture Complex, Titanium Dioxide Sunscreen, Bio-Essence Nighttime Calcium Complex, Nutrient Essentials Mask, Ultra Moisture Renewal, Intense Moisturizer and Eye Cream, and Vitamin C + Calcium Complex. The Anti-Aging Skin Care Products page contains descriptions and ingredient listings for these products.
The use of skin care products that are rich in antioxidants is a key and highly effective anti-aging strategy for the skin and it simply makes no sense to use products that do not provide this benefit.
Hydroquinone alternatives for skin lightening
Posted Thursday, January 18, 2007 by Kristin Nash, BSN, R.N.
With an FDA ruling pending that may call for the withdrawal of over-the-counter (OTC) hydroquinone, skin care professionals are looking at alternative skin lighteners. Lightening agents are big business; we baby boomers are now paying for our years of baby oil/iodine/sun reflector use with hyperpigmented, blotchy, uneven skin. Help!
Fret not, there are alternatives. Arbutin is an extract of the bearberry plant and has been shown to be effective at inhibiting melanin synthesis. Azelaic acid is derived from yeast that grows naturally on skin and is often found in different preparations combining alpha hydroxy acids among others. Kojic acid is derived from fungus and has been used for years as a skin lightener. It too is often found in combination with other lighteners and alpha hydroxy acids. Lactic acid is derived from sour milk and is a gentle, natural way to lighten skin. It is also an exfoliant and is often found in combination with other ingredients that lighten, brighten and exfoliate. Vitamin C has been shown in studies to inhibit melanin production and is also a potent antioxidant and free radical scavenger. The down side of vitamin C is that it is notoriously hard to stabilize and degrades fairly quickly in the presence of oxygen.
One caveat: All lighteners and in particular those in combination with alpha hydroxy acids can cause redness, stinging and irritation. Visit a skin care professional who can help you find the right lightening agent for your skin. One size does not fit all! Oh, and ditch the tanning habit. It will pay off years later in smoother, more even-toned skin.
NEW! Anti-Aging Face Cream with Ester C
Previously named "Alpha Forte Rejuvenating Face Cream"
Skin aging is largely due to free radicals which assault healthy skin cells resulting in the appearance of dull, damaged skin. Antioxidants combat the damage from free-radicals. This professional strength antioxidant formula for the face combines specialized vitamins and nutrients which protect and preserve the skin.
Anti-Aging Face Cream contains Alpha Lipoic Acid and Vitamin C Esters, powerful antioxidants shown to have potent free radical neutralizing and anti-inflammatory properties which can protect against and reverse skin aging and damage.
DMAE, another active ingredient in Anti-Aging Face Cream, is well known to provide immediate visible benefits as it increases skin tone, smoothness, and brightness, as well as tightens pores. Celebrities commonly lather on DMAE right before going on stage to significantly tighten pores and obtain flawless looking skin.
Together, DMAE, Alpha Hydroxy Acid, and Vitamin C Esters work synergistically to help minimize large pores while reducing and preventing fine lines and wrinkles providing a smoother porcelain-like complexion.
Combined with good nutrition and exercise, Anti-Aging Face Cream can help you achieve healthy looking skin and a fresh, youthful, appearance!
The Product Ester C Evening Wrinkle Cr?me is designed as a leave on night time cr?me to rejuvenate, exfoliate, and anti-oxidize the skin while increasing elasticity and decreasing wrinkles of all types. This product works while you sleep! This rich blend of natural ingredients for cellular rejuvenation of skin contains no chemical preservatives or alcohol.
Ingredients and Suggested Use
Ingredients:
Deionized Water, 10% Vitamin C Esters DMAE, 1% Alpha Lipoic Acid, .25% Alpha Hydroxy Acid, Tricaprylin, Glyceryl Stearate, Vegetable Emulsifier, Ethyoxydiglycol, Lipsome Delivery System, Shea Butter, Squalene Oil with Vitamin E, Borage Oil, Vitamin A Retinol, CoQ10, Grapefruit Seed Extract, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Poatassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate.
Natural Skincare Products and Natural Cosmetics
Faith in Nature - Natural Skincare Products and Natural Cosmetics
Over 30 years ago in rural Scotland, Rona Rose started making natural skincare products and natural cosmetics in her own kitchen using herb and plant material, essential oils and other traditional ingredients. She made moisturising creams and lotions to recipes formulated by herself and based on traditional ingredients used safely for hundreds of years. Her aim was to produce best quality natural additive-free body care products.
From early days she created products with natural ingredients which worked as well as or better than commercial brands, without using paraffin oil, synthetics, artificial dyes or animal by-products.
With Faith in Nature you only get Natural Skincare Products and Natural Cosmetics.
Take a look what Faith in Nature can do for you. Browse the site and rest assured that only natural ingredients are used to make the finest products.
You’ll find a wide range of products including a comprehensive range of Natural Skincare products and Natural Cosmetics.
Cosmetics play many roles as they are more than just blush and mascara
Cosmetics play many roles as they are more than just blush and mascara. They can protect you from the sun, change or protect your appearance. Cosmetics like perfumes and deodorants are part of your everyday life. Learn more on www.DermatologyCare.ca including tips and facts about your skin and your skin health.
Cosmetic or Cosmeceutical?Skin products are either classified as drugs or cosmetics. A drug can alter the function and structures of the skin while a cosmetic just changes the appearance. The term cosmeceutical describes products that use ingredients that have some biological effect on the skin but are not classified as drugs. It means that these products cannot make claims about improving the skin function only that they improve the appearance.
Natural doesn't mean non-allergicJust because a product contains natural ingredients, doesn't mean that it won't be potentially irritating. Products with rosemary, tea tree oil, lavender and chamomile can provoke an allergic reaction. Before using any new product, it's wise to apply a very small amount first to make sure that it's safe for your skin.
Caution when buying cosmeticsSample the makeup - not the germs! If you're trying out makeup samples at the cosmetics counter, be sure to use a disposable applicator to decrease the risk of contamination. For the same reason, you should never share your friends' makeup either.
Is a natural ingredient really natural? The botanical or plant sounding components that are in products labeled "natural" are usually synthesized in a laboratory rather that extracted from plants. These natural ingredients may still cause allergic reactions.
Does perfume-free always mean no perfume? Perfume free products can sometimes have perfumes in them to block the chemical smell of a cosmetic but they are labeled as preservatives. The only topical preparation that does not need a preservative is pure petroleum jelly.
natural cosmetics INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED -
(the ingredients listed below are used in one or more of the products that we supply).
What exactly are all those ingredients and what is their function? We have devised this glossary below to help you understand. This reveals what we feel is important information that can help you make an informed choice and also reassure you.
ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE - 3 (ARGIRELINE) an anti-wrinkle peptide, which works through a unique mechanism that relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with regular use.
AHA's : Ingredients extracted from various plant sources or milk. However, 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. In low concentrations (less than 3%) these work as water-binding agents. At over 4% and in a pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective but are considered less stable and less skin friendly.
ALCOHOL : Organic compounds that have a vast range of forms and uses in cosmetics. In some benign forms they are glycols used as humectants and help deliver ingredients into skin. When fats and oils (see fatty acids) are chemically reduced, they become a group of less-dense alcohols called fatty alcohols that can have emollient properties or become detergent cleansing agents. When alcohols have low molecular weights they can be drying and irritating. The alcohols to be concerned about in skin-care products are ethanol, denatured alcohol, ethyl alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl, and SD alcohol. These can be extremely drying and irritating to skin.
ALLONTOIN: A by-product of uric acid extracted from urea and considered an effective anti-irritant
ALOE EXTRACT, (see below)
ALOE VERA EXTRACT: Has been shown to have anti-irritant and soothing properties. In pure form, aloe vera's benefits on skin are probably its lack of occlusion and the refreshing sensation it provides.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS. See AHAs
APRICOT KERNEL: A seed that, especially when finely ground, is a natural exfoliant.
ARGIRELINE: see ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE - 3
ASEFETIDA EXTRACT: taken from a herbal plant from India to prevent the formation of melanin, resulting in a lighter skin color and more even skin tone.
B
BLADDERWRACK EXTRACT: Has a tightening, drying effect on skin
BUTYLCARBAMATE: Preservative
BUTYLENE GLYCOL: An agent which attracts moisture to the skin and retains it.
C
C13-14: Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient
CAMPHOR: Aromatic substance obtained from the wood of a southeast Asian tree, Cinnamomum camphora, or manufactured synthetically. When applied to the skin it produces a cooling effect and dilates blood vessels
CANADIAN WILLOWHERB: A 5% extract of Canadian Willowherb has been shown to reduce redness more rapidly than 1% hydrocortisone cream (Herb-A-Clear contains a 5% extract).
CAPSICUM EXTRACT: Derived from a large group of plants consisting primarily of the pepper family, including chili peppers and paprika. These are used as counter-irritants to relieve muscle aches.
CARBOMER: Thickening agents used primarily to create gel-like formulations
CETEARYL ALCOHOL: A fatty alcohol used as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or synthetically.
CETYL DIMETHICONE: Semisynthetic compound derived from a fatty acid and synthetic silicones. Function: Emollient / Moisturiser
CHAMOMILE: Herb that has research showing it to have anti-irritant, soothing, and antioxidant properties .
COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE: Considered one of the more gentle surfactants used in skin-care products. See surfactant.
CORUNDUM CRYSTAL (ALUMINIUMOXIDE): a patented formula for optimum exfoliation and cellular rejuvenation.
CYCLOMETHICONE: Silicone with a drier finish than dimethicone. See silicone
D
DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL: See silicone
DEIONIZED WATER: Filtered water used in cosmetics. All water used in cosmetic formulations goes through this process to remove components that could interfere with a product's stability and performance.
DIMETHICONE: See silicone
DIPEPTIDE-2: Helps improve lymphatic circulation and detoxifies skin
DISILLED WATER: Filtered water used in cosmetics. All water used in cosmetic formulations goes through this process to remove components that could interfere with a product's stability and performance.
E
EMOLLIENT: Substances that prevent water loss and have a softening and soothing effect on the skin. They can be natural, like almond oil, or manufactured, like mineral oil
EMU OIL: An oil extracted from a large bird native to New Zealand. It is a good emollient and water-binding agent and has anti-inflammatory properties
EMULSIFIER: an additive that promotes the formation of a stable mixture, or emulsion, of oil and water.
ESSENTIAL OILS: Group of volatile fluids derived primarily from plants, and used in cosmetics primarily as fragrant additives.
ESTER-C (VITAMIN C): Trade name for a combination form of vitamin C that contains mainly calcium ascorbate
ETHYLHEXYL BENZOATE: U.V. absorber
ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE-EMOLLIENT: U.V. absorber
F
FATTY ACIDS: Typically found in plant and animal lipids (fat), such as glycerides, sterols, and phospholipids. These are used in cosmetics as emollients, thickening agents, and when mixed with glycerin, cleansing agents.
FDC&C RED 33: According to the FDA, when FD&C is followed by a colour, it is certified as safe for use in food, drugs, and cosmetics..
FRAGRANCE: One or a blend of either volatile and/or fragrant plant oils (or synthetically derived oils) that impart aroma and odor to products.
G
GLYCERINE: A viscous fluid derived either synthetically or from plants. It is an emollient, a slip agent, and a humectant ( water-binding agent) and can keep water in skin. Myths about glycerin taking water out of the skin are inaccurate and do this great skin-care ingredient a disservice.
GLYCERYL STEARATE: Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. Part of a large group of ingredients that are composed of fats and oils. At room temperature, the fats are usually solid and the oils are generally liquid. Some tropical oils are liquids in their sites of origin and become solids in cooler or different applications. These multitudinous fats and oils are used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as water-binding and thickening agents.
PEG-100 STEARATE: PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEG compounds are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients.
GLYCERYL STEARATE SE: Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.
GLYCOLIC ACID (AHA): see AHA
H
HESPERIDEN: A bioflavinoid that has antioxidant and water-binding properties for skin
HESPERIDEN METHYL CHALCONE: see above
HORSECHESTNUT SEED EXTRACT : May have anti-inflammatory properties for skin, but it can also stimulate circulation
HYALURONIC ACID: A component of skin tissue that is used in skin-care products as a good water-binding agent and moisuriser.
HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL: Used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as binding and thickening agents.
HYDROLYSED WHEAT PROTEIN: Wheat proteins broken down by enzymes or by treatment with acids or alkalis. An agent which attracts moisture to the skin and retains it.
I
IODOPROPYNOL: Used as a preservative in cosmetics. See preservatives.
IRON OXIDES: Compounds of iron that are used as colourings in some cosmetics
ISOPARAFFIN: Waxy, petroleum-based substance. Used as a thickener for cosmetics.
ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: see alcohol
ISOPRPYL PALIMITATE: Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient and, as is true for any emollient or thickening agent
ISOSTEARIC ACID: A naturally occurring fatty acid. Function: Binding agent / Emulsifier / Surfactant
J
JOJOBA OIL: An emollient oil similar to all nonvolatile plant oils
K
KOJIC DIPALMITATE: see below
KOJIC ACID: An extract of fungi (mushrooms) that has some reported value for preventing melanin production. Kojic acid does have antioxidant properties.
L
LACTIC ACID: An alpha hydroxy acid (see AHAs) extracted from milk, though most forms used in cosmetics are synthetic. It exfoliates cells on the surface of skin by breaking down the material that holds skin cells together.
LAURETH-7: Substances that in various combinations create a wide range of mild detergent cleansing agents called surfactants. See surfactant.
M
MAGNESIUM ALUMINIUM SILICATE: A powdery, dry-feeling white solid that can be used as a thickening agent and powder in cosmetics.
MALIC ACID (AHA): see AHA
METHYL PARABEN: see parabens
MIROCRYSTALLINE WAX: crystal structure wax for binding ingredients
N
NATURAL ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS, see AHA
NEOPENTYLGLYCOL DICAPRYLATE/DICAPRATE: Used as an emollient and thickening agent
O
OCTYL METHOXYCINNAMATE: A sunscreen agent used to protect primarily from the sun’s UVB rays
OCTYL STEARATE: Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient
OIL OF PEPPERMINT: peppermint oil
OIL OF ROSEMARY: rosemary oil
OLIVE OIL CASTILE: An emollient plant oil similar to all nonvolatile plant oils
OREGON GRAPE, Oregon Grape is an evergreen shrub and has a proven strong bacteriacidal effect and can be used as a treatment for skin diseases
P
PALMITOYL OLIGOPEPTIDE: see below
PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-3: see below
PALMOTOYL PENTAPEPTIDE -3 (MATRIXYL): It is a fatty acid mixed with amino acids.
PANTHENOL: A substance derived from the vitamin B-complex. It has a thick, syrupy texture with humectant properties. It is also used as an emollient
PARABEN: Group of preservatives, including butylparaben, propylparaben, methylparaben, and ethylparaben. They are the most widely used group of preservatives found in cosmetics. It is estimated that more than 90% of all cosmetic products contain some form of paraben. They are considered to cause less irritation than some preservatives.
PEG COMPOUNDS. PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEGs are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients.
PEG 150 DISTEARATE: PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEGs are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients.
PEG-100 STEARATE PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEGs are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients.
PEG-400 PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEGs are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients.
PHENYLTRIMETHICONE: A silicone with a drier finish than dimethicone
PHOSPHOLIPIDS: Type of lipid (fat) composed of glycerol, fatty acids, and phosphate. Phospholipids are essential to the function of cell membranes by providing a stable surrounding structure. Lecithin and cholesterol are phosopholipids. See glyceryl ester, and natural moisturizing factors.
METHYCINNAMATE: a compound used in many sunscreens . It absorbs ultraviolet light.
POLYACRYLAMIDE: basic type of material used to make gels
PROPYL PARABEN: see parabens
PRESERVAITIVES: Substances used in cosmetics to prevent bacterial and microbial contamination of products..
PURIFIED WATER: Filtered water used in cosmetics. All water used in cosmetic formulations goes through this process to remove components that could interfere with a product's stability and performance
PYRUVIC ACIDS: functions as an antioxidant
R
RED TEA: a powerful antioxidant and a popular ingredient in cosmetics.
RETINYL PALMITATE (VITAMIN A): Retinyl palmitate is an ester of vitamin A.
ROSE HIP SEED OIL: A good emollient oil that has antioxidant properties.
S
SAFFLOWER OIL: An emollient plant oil similar to all nonvolatile plant oils.
SALICYLIC ACID: The active ingredient in aspirin. It is used in cosmetics as an exfoliant, and is the only source of beta hydroxy acid (BHA). BHA also has the ability to penetrate into the pore (AHAs do not), and can exfoliate inside the pore as well; it is thus considered effective for reducing clogged pores and breakouts. Because BHA is related to aspirin (both are salicylates), it retains some of aspirin’s anti-inflammatory properties. In this regard BHA is anecdotally considered a good option for those with rosacea.
SEAWEED EXTRACT: Seaweed has antioxidant properties
SILICA: A mineral found abundantly in sandstone, clay, and granite, as well as parts of plants and animals. It is the principal ingredient of glass. In cosmetics it is used as an absorbent powder and thickening agent.
SODIUM CAPROYL LACTATE: A semisynthetic compound derived from fatty acids - functions as an emulsifier.
SODIUM CHLORIDE: Common table salt. It is used primarily as a binding agent in skin-care products and occasionally as an abrasive in scrub products.
SODIUM HYALURONATE: See hyaluronic acid
SODIUM SILICATE: A highly alkaline mineral used in cosmetics
SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE: Used to thicken and stabilize cosmetic formulations
SQUALAN: An oil derived from shark liver or from plants and sebum. It is considered a good emollient for skin,
STEARETH 20: Emulsifier / Surfactant
STEARIC ACID: A fatty acid (see fatty acids) used as an emollient and to help keep other ingredients intact in a formulation (see thickening agent). Stearic acid is best known for the "pearly" and "waxy" feel that it adds to your body care products, which ultimately has a cooling effect when applied on the skin.
SULFUR COLLOIDAL: Finely ground sulphur - Antimicrobial (herbs used to rid the body of micro-organisms that have invaded it or act on the skin).
SUNFLOWER OIL: An emollient plant oil similar to all nonvolatile plant oils
SURFACTANT. Acronym for surface active agent. Surfactants degrease and emulsify oils and fats and suspend soil, allowing them to be washed away, as laundry products do. Surfactants are used in most forms of cleansers and many of them are considered gentle and effective for most skin types.
T
TEA TREE OIL: Essential oil by steam or water distillation from leaves and twigs - displays a number of remarkable properties making a very effective oil for a wide range of complaints.
THICKENING AGENTS: Substances that can have a soft to hard waxlike texture or a creamy, emollient feel, and can be great lubricants. There are literally thousands of ingredients in this category that give every lotion, cream, lipstick, foundation, mascara, and so on its distinctive feel and form.
TITANIUM DIOXIDE: An inert earth mineral used as a thickening, whitening, lubricating, and sunscreen ingredient in cosmetics. It protects from UVA and UVB radiation and is considered to have no risk of skin irritation.
TOCOPHEROL ACETATE: Vitamin E- Considered one of the more stable and reliable antioxidants used in cosmetics
TRIDECYL TRIMELLITATE: Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient.
TRIETHANOLIAMINE: Used in cosmetics as a pH balancer.
V
VEGETABLE GLYCERINE: Used to retain moisture and helpful in pulling oxygen and bringing it into the skin. Vegetable glycerine is a natural emollient that adds a cooling effect on the skin and has found itself in most skin care products and soaps
VEGETABLE GUM: A purified natural gum obtained from the acacia tree which is used as a stabilizer/emulsifier.
VITAMIN C: Considered a potent antioxidant for skin
VITAMIN K1: The primary claims for the use of vitamin K cosmetics are to reduce the appearance of dark circles under the eyes and reduce the appearance of surface capillaries.
W
WILLOWBARK: May have some anti-inflammatory benefits for skin because, it appears to have aspirin-like composition.
Y
YEAST CELL DERIVATIVE EXTRACT: Yeast is a source of betaglucan, which is considered a good antioxidant.
YERBA MATE EXTRACT: Used for the preparation of the most popular tea-like beverage of South America. It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties
Z
ZINC OXIDE: Zinc Oxide is a naturally occurring white pigment that has the greatest UV absorption of all commercial pigments available. It is the most effective natural sun block ingredient currently available, adding itself wonderfully to sunscreen recipes also lending itself an "antiseptic" like functionality to creams, and lotions..
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